Rats in your Chicken Coop! It’s every chicken keeper’s nightmare.
Today, we’re diving into why vermin like rats and mice are not wanted in your chicken coop, the warning signs of an infestation, and, most importantly, how to prevent and control them.
Just because you have chickens, it does not mean you will have rats. They will equally be attracted to spilt food under garden bird feeders. Rats want food; that is their sole motivation.
At Flyte so Fancy, we often have questions from our customers about dealing with vermin, and we have learnt from our own experience - living here in the countryside next to a dairy farm for over 20 years - that there are myths, and there are effective solutions. So, let’s tackle the problem head-on - no holds barred - to protect your chickens, your garden, and your health.
Why We Don’t Want Rats in the Coop (or Anywhere in the Garden!)
Rats and mice are more than just an annoyance; they’re a real danger. I know many of you want to preserve all wildlife, and on the whole, I agree, BUT … Rats are an infestation!
They are disease-ridden and a danger to your pets, to wildlife, and your family. And even when you rid your garden of them, there are millions more out there.
Therefore, as it is our job to protect our chickens and pets from disease and danger, let’s get rid of the rats. If you have ever seen a chicken with its feet chewed off by a rat, well … it isn’t pleasant, to say the least!
Here’s why ...
They are disease carriers: Rats are infamous for spreading diseases like leptospirosis (Weil’s Disease), salmonella, and hantavirus (as well as carrying fleas and mites). These can be transmitted to humans and animals through direct contact or contaminated surfaces. The risk they pose to your chickens and your family’s health is not to be underestimated.
Remember your history books showing the Bubonic Plague, or Black Death, pandemics of the 14th, 16th & 17th centuries - and even long before that, too? Millions of people died, all from Rats with fleas carried around Europe on trading ships of the time.
The two common types of rats in the UK are the Brown Rat and Black Rat. Brown Rats are the largest at approx. 23cm long and weighing about 500g.
They will make their home anywhere, in towns and cities as well as the countryside, and eat anything from seeds to human food waste.
Black Rats are smaller, with shorter bodies and longer tails, and weigh half as much. They are very agile and will climb almost anything – telephone wires, netting, drain pipes, brick walls – and prefer living in buildings and roof spaces.
Not all Rodents (mammals with continuously growing incisors) like Rats, Mice, and Voles are harmful - the most prolific disease carriers are Rats of course, but Mice also carry diseases like salmonella. Voles, however, are not typically a health hazard but do dig holes in your garden. Shrews are not rodents, they are insectivorous mammals and do not pose a health risk to humans.
Danger to your Chickens: Did you know rats will gnaw on your chickens' feet and legs while they roost? This naturally leads to inevitable injuries, infections, and distress. They will also kill and eat chicks if they have the chance. But ... it's also the diseases they bring by just being there!
They steal food and pollute drinking water: Rats are notorious for stealing chicken feed (they eat up to 30g a day), but that’s not all - they will contaminate the food and water with their droppings and urine by climbing over the feeders and drinkers, putting your chickens at further risk of disease.
Remember! Their sole driving force is food! They have an incredible sense of smell and will seek out food sources anywhere.
They also want water, and if, for example, you have a drinker or dish of water on the ground, they will wade through it, urinating all the time.
If you love feeding garden birds, then vermin will also be encouraged by the ready supply of split seeds under the feeders. Seed-catching trays under the feeders can help to reduce the food on the ground.
Prolific Breeders: A female rat can (according to people who know i.e. Rodent Controllers) have over 100 pups a year. Each female pup is ready to reproduce at 8 weeks old, so you can see how quickly one female's offspring can compound into thousands in a year. It’s been a global problem for millennia!
A female can start breeding at 8-10 weeks old, and gestation is about 21 days. A litter can be up to 12 pups, and they produce litters every 4-6 weeks. Their survival depends on food, water sources and shelter.
Once they establish themselves nearby, their population explodes, and it can become very hard to handle.
They like to come inside during winter, get nice and cosy, build a nest and start reproducing, so we need to prevent this.
Unwelcome in the Garden (and home): Rats in your garden mean more than just trouble for your chickens. You just don’t want them where your children and pets play, and they pose a risk to other wildlife, like hedgehogs, too.
They like piles of debris and clutter, compost heaps, thick vegetation, under your shed, or under garden decking … anywhere they can hide undisturbed and seek food nearby.
Equally, if you love gardening, then they will help themselves to your vegetable patch, particularly root vegetables like carrots, parsnips, potatoes, etc. They will also nibble courgettes and low hanging vegetables, and readily feast on seeds and fruit too.
In the home, they can live under floorboards, in cavity walls and fixed cupboards, in insulation, and they love chewing electric wiring to keep their constantly growing teeth in good shape. Try the Anti-Rodent Aerosol Spray for wiring and lofts.
One of the issues you may encounter is that rat problems can come over from your neighbour’s gardens. If your neighbours aren’t as vigilant or clean and tidy, it may be difficult for you to control … but they may not even know!
How to Spot a Rat Infestation in Your Chicken Run
Look out for these tell-tale signs:
Visibility: The most obvious sign is seeing rats or mice scurrying around your garden or coop. Spotting one will mean there are many more lurking nearby. They generally don't like open spaces, but they do like places to hide near your coop, like a shrubbery or any dense overgrowth. They avoid daylight if they can so at night, when they are less likely to be seen, they will come out to take any food they can find.
Footprints and Tracks: Rats leave greasy smears on walls, floors, fencing, or the ground along their usual paths, creating what’s known as ‘rat runs’. Look for footprints in the mud, especially around a drinker. You can test this by sprinkling some flour along their path and checking the next day for tracks and footprints.
Chewed Surfaces: Look for gnawed edges on wood, plastic, cardboard, wires or scratches on metal. Rats have strong teeth and aren’t picky when it comes to materials.
They are one of the few mammals whose teeth keep growing (like rabbits, squirrels, beavers), at approx. 5 inches a year, so it’s a natural behaviour – it saves them going to the dentist! They do love chewing on electrical wiring (in vehicles, machinery, in the house) – this, of course, is very dangerous and can lead to fires, or worse!
Droppings: Small, dark droppings scattered on the ground, particularly near food sources or nesting areas, are a dead giveaway. Mice droppings are small, rice-shaped black pellets, and rat droppings look like raisins. You don't want your chickens picking these up!
Understand Rodent Season: As it starts to get cold, say November onwards, rodents will move indoors to a warm, dry environment with access to food and water. Once they’re nice and cosy, they will build a nest and breed like crazy – ironically, a group of rats is called a Mischief - but before you know it, you will have a colony, and they do protect their territory - it will never end!
Preventing Rodent Infestations
Prevention is best - let’s be pro-active!
Cleanliness is Key: Regularly clean your chicken coop and run area with disinfectant and sanitisers, both to prevent contamination and rodent-borne pathogens and to help make it less attractive for vermin.
Don’t leave food scattered on the ground, they will know it's there. This is where using pelleted food instead of mash can make the cleaning task easier. However, they love grain and can smell it from a long way away, so make sure any scattered scratch feeds have been eaten up before dark.
Declutter Your Garden: Rats love to nest under clutter, rubbish, and garden debris. Keep your garden tidy and remove any potential hiding or nesting spots. Any shrubs close to the ground can provide hiding places.
If you have a compost heap, this can be a favourite food source so, if possible, don't put vegetable matter or cooked food on it. We advise just keeping it for grass, leaves and weeds - and your coop bedding of course.
Rats are neophobic (they have a fear of new things), and they don't like disruption. Try moving things around in your garden to disturb them, put obstacles in their way, fill in rat runs, move your coop regularly if possible - anything that stops them from getting comfortable.
Secure Your Chicken Run: Rats are skilled diggers and tunnellers. If there is a little gap anywhere, they will get through it. They can gnaw through old-fashioned chicken wire and can squeeze through holes of less than an inch. Any small hole is an invitation.
While small wire mesh (e.g. half-inch to one-inch square) on the floor of your chicken run, to cover the ground, can deter them, it’s tricky to strike a balance between security and your chickens’ comfort.
Weldmesh Scratch Mats are available (made to order, call for a quote) to go on the ground of your chicken run, in half-inch by one-inch mesh. We advise covering this with a good layer of Hardwood Woodchip so that the birds can’t injure themselves while they scratch around, or get their feet caught in the mesh.
Invest in Rat-Resistant Feeders: Look for specially designed feeders that prevent rats from accessing the food, like Treadle Feeders. There are Feedomatic Feeders with a plastic Treadle and optional metal Rat-guard, or the all metal ALMA Treadles. All-metal options aren't cheap but would be best overall of course (not suitable for all breeds due to weight required and noise). Remember to clear up any spilt food around the feeder.
When the birds stand on the treadle, the feed trough opens, they eat, step off the treadle, and it closes. As rats are smaller and lighter, they can’t make the trough open – unless they all gang up together and stand on each other’s shoulders!
Hanging feeders or suspending them off the ground can also help. Hang it in the run at the bird’s head height, but as some rats are quite agile, you might want to lift it higher, onto an extra hook, just overnight.
Remove Food Sources: Rats are generally nocturnal, so removing food and water sources when your chickens are roosting reduces the attraction for these pests.
Don’t forget, they are looking for water too. If you put the food and water in the Coop itself, the Rats will smell it and try and gnaw their way in.
Rats also love eggs and will raid nests if possible so, again, don't leave temptations like eggs there overnight.
Deterrents: As mentioned above, disturb them as much as possible by moving things around and blocking rat runs, as they hate new things.
Rodents also hate the smell of citronella, ammonia, mothballs, peppermint, and cayenne pepper. Equally, there are plants they find repellent e.g. Lavender, Sage, Oregano, Onions, Garlic, Daffodils, and Hyacinths.
Although the effectiveness of any deterrents like this is at best anecdotal or worst just myth, it may be worth a try.
Other deterrents I know many people 'suggest' are cats and terriers. While it shouldn't be (in our opinion) the reason to get a cat or terrier, having a cat or dog can disturb them and prevent them from taking up residence.
What to Do If You Already Have Rats
If rats have already made their way into your garden or coop, it’s time to act fast.
Clean Up: Start by thoroughly cleaning the area. Remove any leftover food, spilt feed, or waste that might be attracting them. If your chicken house sits on the ground, it’s a perfect place for vermin to live undisturbed. So, raise it on legs or blocks by about 6 inches to get some clear air under the house.
Use Lockable Bait Boxes: The bait (rodenticide) that is available to non-professional users today (since 2018) typically comes in small 300g pouches - these will only contain half the amount of active substance compared to the professional version (for your own safety). A professional pest exterminator will hold a CRRU Certificate, and if you are at all tentative about the whole thing, this is the way to go.
If you want to keep on top of this yourself though, then these are the bait boxes to use.
They must be lockable by law in the UK. Wear gloves and a mask when handling baits.
Place the boxes where rats are active - in their rat runs or where you know they nest. Use a heavy weight to hold them in place or screw them to a wall and, of course, keep them out of the way of children and pets. If you place something heavy on the top, like bricks, it will prevent the box from being moved/dislodged.
Watch our short video on YouTube here: Why Should I Use a Rat Bait Station
We advise a block bait or grain bait in the internal box – not pouches as these can get carried away. Watch for signs that it is being taken and keep them topped up. If you have pouches, then we suggest emptying the grain into the tray, carefully, with gloves!
Traps and Deterrents: You could consider humane traps - a wire cage that traps the live rat inside - but you’d need to dispose of the live creature afterwards.
The Electronic Traps are very effective and probably the most humane option, but these are best used inside or covered against the weather. And Sonic Rodent Repellers, emitting high-pitched noise, only work best indoors.
The cheapest type of trap is the old-fashioned Snap Trap, a simple baited block which spings a metal bar to kill the rat, or there are also glue traps (neither of these seem very humane to us). Think about your chickens’ safety when setting traps around the coop.
Reminder: Rat control is an ongoing process. Even after you believe you’ve cleared them out, you must keep an eye out to prevent another infestation and adopt preventative measures.
We understand it’s a challenge to remain vermin-free, but we hope you can take on board our practical advice here and look at products like rat-resistant feeders and bait boxes.
We’re all here to help keep your chickens safe, so please do call if you need advice. You can watch our YouTube video about Rats and Chickens here. We have also included some hints and tips in our blog about Poultry Predators.
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All images except two are AI-generated. Rats Around Your Chicken Coop ©Flyte so Fancy 22025. Authors: Anne & Phillip Weymouth (Directors, Flyte so Fancy Ltd). Reproduction of part or all of this text is only possible with the express permission of Flyte so Fancy Ltd.
